LAURA DICKEY
PROFESSIONAL MAKE-UP PROJECT
LACE FRONT WIG
19/3/15
RACHEL
DEMO:
TOOLS & MATERIALS:
- CLINGFILM
- GRIPS/HAIRSPRAY/BRUSH
- CELLOTAPE
- MARKER PEN
- SCISSORS
- MALEUABLE BLOCK
- BLOCK PINS
- TISSUE
- FOUNDATION NET
- CAUL NET
- LACE NET
- CLEAR NYLON THREAD
- KNOTTING HOOK AND HOLDER
Model prior to hair wrapping. | Brush the model's hair away from the face and flatten. |
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Wrap the hair flat against the head in large pin curls and twists. Grip to hold in place. | Side view of hair wrapping. |
Place cling film over the models hair. | Cellotape over the cling film to conform to shape of models head. |
Draw around the outline of the model's hairline with a permanent marker and cello tape over to prevent smudging. | Remove template from the model's head. |
Position the template on the block and trim just outside the outline with scissors. | Stuff the template with tissue to fill any gaps once positioned on the wooden block. |
Continue to remove and stuff the template where necessary until you receive a firm rounded shape. | Cellotape the template to the block. |
Side view of the template mounted to the block. | Back view. |
Measure 2inches from the front hair line to create the lace section. Repeat from the lace line to create the foundation section. Continue around the back of the head to create a section for the caul net. | Label each section accordingly with different coloured markers to ensure each section is clearly identifiable. |
Left side view of labelled template. | Right side view of labelled template. |
Fold the foundation net in half and mark the centre point. | Position the net along the front of the foundation net section and ensure it overlaps by approximately 1cm at the back nape of the neck. Nail into position with block pins. |
Side view of foundation net prior to trimming. | SAM_8957.JPGLeave 1cm of netting around the outline of the hairline and trim. Roll up the netting behind the ears and the nape of the neck and pin into position. Tack in place with thread. |
Right side view of tacked foundation net. | Left side view of tacked foundation net. |
Position the caul net over the caul net section and overlap onto the foundation net by approximately 1cm. Create downwards darts around the caul net until it lays flat against the block. Pin into position. | Side view of darts. |
Right side view of darts. | Trim away excess caul netting. Tack the caul net to the foundation net and whip the darts. |
Position the lace netting across the lace section and allow it to overlap the foundation netting by approximately 1cm. Pin into position. | Fold darts downwards along the lace and foundation joining until the lace lays flat against the face, |
Whip the darts into position. | Final outcome of the three part lace foundation on the block. |
PROCESS:
FINAL OUTCOME:
EVALUATION:
WIG RESEARCH
Instructions given for constructing a three part lace front foundation. | |
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This above diagram is a good visual reference for the shape of the lace foundation. The fine lace front must be positioned at the front and lay flat against the block. | Hair-lace needs to be changed once signs of tear are visible. It must be cleaned properly to remove glue and prolong discolouration. |
Visual references for creating a lace front wig with appropriate products and materials. | These step by step instructions are easier to follows as they are clearly labelled in steps. |
It is important to refer to this handout when taking measurements of my models head for the foundation template. | A lace front wig is more realistic than a hard front wig as you can create a natural and blend able hairline. |
HANDOUT:
Sara Taylor. (2015). Wig Handout. [Accessed: 19 March 2015]
Fold the foundation net in half and mark the mid-point, Position over the foundation section of the wig template. |
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Pin the foundation net to the front section of the foundation section of the template. |
Overlap the back of the foundation net to create a central seam. Roll up 1cm of the excess net and pin into position. Tack in place with nylon thread. |
Position on the caul net and overlap over the foundation net by approximately 2 cm. Create darts which fold downwards to make the net sit flat against the block. |
Whip the darts in place. Trim off the excess around the edge and whip to the caul net to the foundation net. |
Position the lace over the front of the template and overlap the foundation net by approximately 2cm. |
Create darts so that lace lays flat against front of block. |
Whip darts into position. |
Trim off excess lace which overlaps foundation net and tack in place. |
Side profile of finished lace front foundation. |
Back view of lace front foundation. |
Lace front foundation for a wig requiring a deep side parting. |
Laura Dickey. (2015). LACE FRONT WIG. Available from: https://youtu.be/PVEbuzImbZc. [Accessed: 19 March 2015]
Final outcome photographed from various angles. | ||
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WHAT WENT WELL AND HOW DID I ACHIEVE THIS?
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The hair was wrapped flat and pinned well to ensure that there was no loose hair and to achieve an accurate measurement of my models head.
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The template for my models head was well structured which I achieved by layering on enough cellotape and ensuring it covered all of the head. This allowed it to hold it's shape and not be too manipulated once on the block.
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I made sure that the template was stuffed firmly with tissue to allow the template to conforming to its original shape. This created a sold base which made it easier to make the three part lace foundation.
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The measurements for each section of the three part lace foundation were equal in size to ensure the foundation was accurate . This was achieved by using a tape measure to measure 2inc from various points around template.
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On a whole the foundation net and caul net was pin tightly to block, which allowed it to conform to the shape of the template and create a more accurate representation of my models head when it came to whipping it into position.
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In addition, I ensure the whipping and tacking was tight which I achieved by creating tension with the thread as I knotted it. This meant that the netting could not be manipulated and again ensured that the foundation for the wig would be an accurate representation of my models head.
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It is also important to note that the darts faced in correct direction (downwards) and were fairly even on either side, which I achieved through accurate judgement of positioning.
WHAT DIDN'T GO WELL AND HOW DID I OVERCOME THIS/WHAT DO I NEED TO CONSIDER FOR NEXT TIME?
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The overlapping seam on foundation net was not central, therefore it did not look as neat. However, this should not affect the function of lace foundation. Next time, I will be more careful when cutting the lace to ensure that I do not cut it too far, meaning that more of the opposite side is needed which makes it off centre.
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The edges of the overlapped netting between the caul and foundation net and lace and foundation net could have been trimmed more closely to appear neater.
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The front lace could have had an extra couple of darts to esure it laid more flat against the face.
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It would have been helpful to apply the three part lace foundation back onto the models head once I had finished it to check the accuracy.
SUITABILITY TO CONTEXT
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The lace front three part foundation would be suitable within a theatre/stage context as the lace front will be visible up close within television or film unless the lace front is finely trimmed.
WIGMAKING AND STYLING:
Short hair does not require hair wrapping - instead the measurement can be taken directly from the models head. Long hair requires wrapping prior to taking measurements as it can add 2 inches to the head measurements. | ||
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This method for transferring head measurements to the block is fairly long winded. Padding directly onto the block is not ideal as the softness of the padding can be manipulated as the lace foundation is applied. | The plastic wrap method is much quicker and provides a solid outer shell made from layers of cello tape which forms a good base for mounting the netting onto. | |
Cutting a slit into the template is easier for stuffing the tissue opposed to repeatedly removing and stuffing the tissue to achieve the desired fit. By cutting a slit you are able to stuff tissue into all required areas with the end of a tail comb and see how much tissue is needed to form a rounded shape. | ||
The slit can be patched up easily with more tape. | The longer the hair, the lighter the hair and the finer the lace or foundation then the longer the wig will take to create. | The circumference band foundation is the most similar to a three part lace foundation, as shown in diagram B because it has the three sections. |
In this instance, vegetable net is used instead of foundation net. Silk ribbon is also used which means the netting can be sewn directly into it. | This shows a different method to what I have been taught. Here the caul net is sewn in first, instead of the foundation netting. It is important to not pin the netting too tight to the ribbon to prevent puckering once it is removed. | |
Wetting vegetable net makes it more malleable and easier to apply to the block. | S | Example of a finished foundation template with lace front. |
Wigs are not only used within media contexts but also for the NHS where patients loose hair from an accident or illness. | This should make note to wrap the clients hair if it is long, prior to taking head measurements. | It is important to record any abnormalities such as, bumps or cysts. Likewise, any hollows to allow for. Note if the client has a parting, as well as the length and positioning. |
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This is a different method for making a lace foundation. Here the instructions tell you to work from the front - backwards. On a whole, I find these instructions quite hard to follow as the diagrams should include arrows and annotations to justify the steps. | ||
WIG MAKING - JEAN ANDERSON:
Anderson, J. (1992). Wigmaking. Fareham: JA Publications.
Ruskai, M. and Lowery, A. (2010). Wig making and styling. Burlington, MA: Focal Press.