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PROFESSIONAL MAKE-UP PROJECT

MOULDING THE FACE/NECK SCULPT

TOOLS & MATERIALS:

- GEL COAT

- RESIN

- CATALYST

- MOULD RELEASE POLYFIBRE

- CHIP BRUSHES

- FIBREGLASS CHOP STRAND MATTING

- VEIL

- VIBRO-SAW

- DRILL 6ML SCREW

- NUTS AND BOLTS

- SANDING PAPER

- WED CLAY

- ROLLING PIN

- CLAY CUTTER

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

FIBREGLASS PROCESS:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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EVALUATION:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

WHAT WENT WELL AND HOW DID I ACHIEVE THIS?

  • The gel coat was applied in a thick even coverage to ensure it captured all of the detail of sculpt.

  • The fibreglass matting adhered well to the gel coat because I allowed it to go tacky before applying the matting.

  • The matting was  applied smoothly over the mould which I achieved by pressing the surface with a chip brush to remove any air bubbles.

  • The edges were sanded smoothly using vibro-saw and sanding paper to ensure the mould looked neat and professional.

  • The mould cleaned out well which I achieved by using naptha and a sculpting tool to scrape out of all the hard to reach areas.

 

WHAT DIDN'T GO WELL AND HOW DID I OVERCOME THIS/WHAT DO I NEED TO CONSIDER FOR NEXT TIME?

  • I found the negative fibreglass mould very difficult to remove from the core because there was an undercut by the ears which I had orginally tried to conceal more by building up the areas with carbody filler. To overcome this, I should have built up the area more before fibreglassing.

  • Once cleaning up the mould I noticed that there were a couple of areas acorss the face cast and flashing that had cracked gel coat. This may have been caused as I applied the second layer of gel coat which may have stick to the first layer of gel coat and lifted to create air bubbles. To overcome this, I mixed up some expoxy putting and smoothed it into the airbubbles to create a flat surface.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

MOULDING THE COWL

FIBREGLASS PROCESS:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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EVALUATION:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

WHAT WENT WELL AND HOW DID I ACHIEVE THIS?

  • The clay wall was very neat and even. I achieved this by measuring even section of cleay which I carefully applied in small section across the cowl. I then filled in the small gap with wedges of clay and made dove tail points which were evenly spaced across the wall. The circles were also well rounded and neat which I achieved using the rounded end of a sculpting tool.

  • The right side of the wall was applied well and smoothly to the cowl and the matting adhered well to the gel coat as I waited for it to go tacky and pressed into all gaps to smooth out any air bubbles in the matting.

 

WHAT DIDN'T GO WELL AND HOW DID I OVERCOME THIS/WHAT DO I NEED TO CONSIDER FOR NEXT TIME?

  • The left side of the mould was more messy than the right hand side because I rushed it. As a result, the fibreglass matting did not properly adgere to the edges and I should have applied more mould release to the clay to ensure it moved away from the mould easier and prevented cracking the gel coat. 

  • I was difficult to remove the mould because it was hard to see the dividing line in the wall. I should have learnt from my earlier mistakes and make the walls different colours on either side so I could distinguish the gap more clearly.

  • Once cleaning up the mould I noticed that there were a couple of areas acorss the face cast and flashing that had cracked gel coat. This may have been caused as I applied the second layer of gel coat which may have stick to the first layer of gel coat and lifted to create air bubbles. To overcome this, I mixed up some expoxy putting and smoothed it into the airbubbles to create a flat surface.

     

MOULDING RESEARCH

NEILL GORTON - MOULDING THE PROSTHETIC SCULPTURE:

 

 

 

 

PART 3: moulding the prosthetic sculpture. (n.d.). [DVD] UK: NEILL GORTON PROSTHETICS STUDIO.

 

NOTES FROM THE DVD:

Bolt small holes in the eyes to prevent the fibreglass mould warping

- build a clay wall across mould and brush on clear lacquer

- spray wax over sculpt and leave to dry or use a hairdryer on a cool setting to speed up process

- talc over sculpt

- gel coat

- resin and fibreglass

- apply extra matting over the nose

- clean out moulds with naptha

- place clay in a large cut so you can measure to estimate how much silicone will be required for the piece

 

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